Magnolia Tree Gardening Blog

Posts Tagged ‘yard’

Caring for both trees and shrubs is basically done in a very similar manner. The one major difference though, is that a tree usually only has one trunk, whereas a shrub can have several stems or trunks. And the planting of both trees and shrubs can be a little different too, so let’s discuss the best way to plant shrubs in your home landscape.

It wasn’t all that long ago that getting shrubs that were not only beautiful but also hardy was difficult to do. But today, there are many more varieties available including hybrids that greatly expand the choices for most do it yourself home landscapers. You can now find appropriate shrubs that provide outstanding color, bloom in various seasons, cover spots that grass simply won’t grow in, and accomplish other purposes in your landscape design, no matter what region of the country you live in.

Shrubs stake out the middle ground in landscaping designs, as they are larger than flowers and yet smaller than trees. So they aid immeasurably in providing a varied and balance landscape theme. They can help soften the lines of a home, they can act as a decorative background for flowers, and they can even hide some things that you don’t want to be seen. On top of that, they add character and shape to a yard, allowing you to trim and cultivate them as you wish. They also tend to be able to grow and reach maturity very rapidly, and last a long time.

To plant shrubs, it’s usually best to choose early spring as the most favorable time. This gives the shrub a good long stretch of favorable weather in which to get well established. If you happen to live in parts of the country that are more mild year-round, you may be able to extend that planting season even into the wintertime. But generally speaking, for most parts of the country, springtime is when you want to start thinking about planting your shrubs for the next year.

The main reason for planting failure is dry roots and there are steps that can be taken to solve that After getting your shrub from the nursery, be sure to water it as soon as you can. It’s often best to keep them in shade at least at first, mulch the ground around them, and you may even decide to prune back the shrub at this point, depending on the age of the plant. The older the shrub, the more it will need to be pruned back initially. That’s why you often come out ahead of the game if you just buy less expensive, smaller shrubs to begin with. And although some plants like forsythia and azaleas can be moved while they are in flower, you should wait to move most shrubs until the flowering is done.

For some shrubs, who lose leaf moisture in the wintertime, you will need to be sure to water in the fall before the ground freezes. These include azaleas, rhododendron, and certain broadleaf evergreens.

Some folks are very hesitant to prune shrubs, but actually this helps keep them young and vigorous. Try to prune out the older branches first, and cut as close to the ground as you can. Many shrubs need pruning almost every year, especially if they have dead branches left over from wintertime, such as hydrangeas, deutzias, and privets. Others just need to head their flower heads pruned off after blooming like azaleas, magnolias and rhododendron.

With just a little bit of time and attention as mentioned above, you can insure that your shrubs stay looking beautiful year in and year out, and always reflect well on your landscaping design.

We were contacted by a Tanglewood resident who was unhappy with the appearance of her front yard. The existing drive was nothing more than a massive concrete slab that left little room for any vegetation other than small patches of San Augustine grass and a magnolia tree that was very close to cracking the back wall next to the house. The landscape had excellent drainage, which in most cases is a good thing. However, in this instance the topsoil retained very little rainwater, so for at least six months of the year the grass would wither and turn brown. Our client wanted this grass replaced with lush plantings of vegetation that would feature varying shades of green with seasonal flowers, and she also wanted a brick walkway that would add a classic Old World touch reminiscent of horse and carriage days of past centuries.

We began our project by carefully studying a number of late 19th-century photographs of brick roads and sidewalks. We studied bricklaying patterns used at the time to create streets that were made entirely of brick, but which by necessity also had to provide humans and horses with a smooth, sure surface for travel. We showed the owner one pattern in particular that caught our eye-a style known in bricklaying as the running bond. This pattern uses bricks laid only on their sides so that the narrow parts face upward. This creates a smooth surface to walk over, but the ends of the bricks do not line up with those in adjacent rows. When you glance quickly at a running bond brick walkway, your eyes often trick you into thinking the brick are racing against each other to a common destination-hence the use of the word “running” in the name of the pattern. This unconscious sense of movement is ideal for building a walkway that leads around a bend, or corner, or through a garden in the front yard.

A brick walkway of any kind is normally a period or historical piece, and it should always look as simple as possible so as to retain its original theme. In the case of this project, for example, we avoided any visible use of concrete or mortar when laying the bricks in the walkway. Instead, we laid a concrete foundation covered then by mortar, and we laid the bricks carefully, by hand, to make certain that we captured the essence of a late 19th-century street. We used only sand covered with paver seal to fill the space between the bricks. This created the illusion that the bricks were loosely laid together, yet walking over them, you felt a firm surface as sure as any modern concrete.

We wanted to really highlight the color and pattern of this new brick walkway to first time visitors and returning guests. In order to do so, we planted a line of boxwoods to frame it much like a picture frame is used to accent a fine painting. This is a common technique in formal landscaping, because boxwoods can be used to enclose everything from flower gardens and shrubbery to fountains and decorative sculptures. In this case, planting a row of boxwoods right next to the outer edge of the walkway formed a sharp right angle of intersecting green and red-just enough to catch the eye and force it to run along the bricks all the way to the front door of the home. Surrounding vegetation was planted to mirror this effect, and selective plantings of dwarf monkey grass were used at the base of our frame to hide the boxwood stalks and further accent the structure and pattern of the bricks.

All of this opened new doors for landscaping the remainder of the front yard and creating a new sense of balance and proportion on both sides of the house. The first things to go were the magnolia tree that was threatening the rear wall, and the patches of San Augustine grass that were drying in the sun. We planted drought resistant zoysia grass in the front center of the yard to create a very plush, emerald-green lawn that would require very little water, and that would retain its color throughout the year. Zoysia also has a much finer blade than San Augustine grass, and it is comfortable and safe to walk on either in shoes or on with bare feet.

To create a border for the south side of the property, we planted a line of Japanese yew trees that continue all the way to the wall in the back. This forced the eye to stay within the front yard and focus on the alternating layers of green and seasonal floral colors that were laid out in patterns in symmetrical, curved patterns of motion. We planted plum delight to add a splash of burgundy that would last throughout the year, and we introduced caladiums into to provide flowers in the winter months.

On the north end of the front yard, all that separated the residence from the neighboring property was what was left of the old driveway and a thin line of San Augustine grass. We left part of the pavement for parking, and we replaced the San Augustine grass with a linear planting of boxwoods and mondo grass. We then elevated this natural barrier with crepe myrtles placed to compliment the Japanese yews on the opposite side of the yard, and we planted a very large tree that we needed as a balancing point between the house and surrounding landscape elements.

Ok, I grew a radish in my front yard garden and the leaves are already there. Its been about 4-5 days since I planted it, so I’m really happy about that. But in the back yard garden is where I planted all the other radishes and squashes( which are sepperated.) is always dry so I have to water them every single day and that takes alot of time doing that because its a big garden. I tried the sprinkler but the garden is behind a tree so it hardly gets wet!!! Is there a way I can keep it moist without me watering it everyday?

Water-wise “naturescapes” offer savings

When it comes to watering your lawn and paying water bills, sound gardening practices can cut down homeowner investments of effort, time and money, reports the American Association of Nurserymen. And, you don’t have to turn your lovely colorful landscape into a rock garden featuring a sprinkling of cactus plants.

This popular approach to water management and water-conserving landscape design has been commonly known as Xeriscaping, and because the term comes from the Greek for “dry” many people assume it describes desert landscapes. That couldn’t be further from the truth. In contrast, the approach focuses on working with nature’s guidelines to create a lush looking landscape. As a matter of fact, “naturescaping” can be another way to describe this water-wise landscape design and management.

Turning your yard and garden into a “naturescape” requires some common sense and planning. That entails choosing the best plants, soils, locations, and irrigation systems for efficient water use. Some of those water-wise plant materials include vibrantly colored perennials and lush varieties of shrubs.

The keys to “naturescaping” involve how, when, and what you water in taking care of your property. Low-volume irrigation systems such as drip-watering devices reduce water use by 50 percent. Early-morning watering cuts down on evaporation.

Water-wise “naturescapes” offer savings. Grouping plants by water requirements is a smart way to guard against overwatering some plants and underwatering others. Save water by replacing leaky parts of irrigation devices and positioning sprinklers to shower areas of vegetation, as opposed to the driveway, garage, or deck.

A constant among guidelines for being water-wise is maintaining the health of your plants. Strong plants don’t need as much water as weak ones do. We have many reports from gardeners that Spray-N-Grow helps their plants withstand drought much better than those not sprayed with Spray-N-Grow. That’s because Spray-N-Grow helps plants develop a better root structure-more roots that are larger and longer. Plants that have a better root structure are more able to “find” any available moisture.

Be sure to add the needed soil amendments and mulch around plants to keep the roots moist. When adding to your landscape, don’t forget to include drought-resistant plants and grasses to those you already have.

Before you begin planning your new “naturescape” or planning how to convert your current landscape into a more water-efficient one, be sure to check with the experts at your retail nursery/garden center. They can offer the most valuable assistance for getting the best results.

I have a large magnolia tree in my front yard and another that is slightly smaller in the backyard. The one in the front yard has drooping leaves that are turning orange/yellow and falling off. The tree looks like it still may have buds for blooms but I can’t see them very well as this tree is very tall. What could be the problem with my leaves and how do I make this tree healthy looking again?

Besides insect repellent lotions or sprays. Is there anything further I should use to minimize insect bites? Mosquitoes are ramped in my area. And now that the weather is getting warmer, I’d like to some pruning and gardening. Is there anything additional I should do to protect myself and dear daughter?

I have a Magnolia tree in my yard and I want to try to start another one but I really don’t know what I’m doing can anyone help?

Have an unused hillside on your property?  it can be turned into a beautiful garden area. Where weeds once grew, a lovely flower garden could preside. Or a garden of yummy vegetables could be planted there. In spite of the rugged terrain, the slope can become a lovely planted area, turning a liability into an asset.

Contour With Terraces

Terraces can really beautify your landscape. At the same time, putting in terraces gives you a wider option for planting, since the area is level. Making the area level makes it so much easier to work and walk there. While terraces have great benefits, making them in undeniably a lot of work. It can also be a little on the expensive side, depending on what materials are used for the walls.

At one time, railroad ties were considered a good source of material for making retaining walls for terraces. They’re not used so much these days, however, and especially aren’t recommended for organic gardens. The catch is the creosote used to preserve the wood. Because it’s a toxic substance, contact with creosote can irritate the skin. The respiratory tract can be irritated by creostoe fumes.

Bottom line, it’s toxic stuff. Not only is direct contact bad, but the creosote can leach into the water and soil. When creosote leaches into the soil, it becomes available for the plants to absorb. If you’re growing vegetable plants, you’re going to eat whatever chemicals are in the plants. Lumber treated with creosote for your terracing just isn’t a good idea.

Safe Wall Materials And Placement

Landscaping boards that are made out of recycled plastics are an option for small slopes and can be found at such places aslandscaping boards such as those found at Gardens Alive!. Use bricks for steeper slopes. Or you could use concrete blocks, modular retaining wall blocks or stone. The different masonry options require varying levels of expertise, so be sure you know how to build walls with the materials you opt to use.

Since terracing makes level beds, the height of the walls will be dictated by the steepness of the slope. The higher walls, the better they should be anchored. They obviously should also be much sturdier. It’s especially important large terraces are anchored well into the slope at each end. They also need proper drainage.

There will be a lot of weight pushing on the walls from all the soil behind them, and there will be even more after a rain. If walls are not built properly, they will bow outwards or even collapse.

If building terraces seems like too big a task to do yourself, there are landscaping contractors that can do the work for you. Obviously that’s a more expensive option, since you have to pay labor costs, as well as paying for materials.

Ready The Soil For Plants.

Because slopes often have erosion problems, it’s always a good idea to enrich the soil before planting. Soil amendments such a well-rotted cow manure, rich loam, compost or other soil amendments to the dirt to make it a better growing medium. However, remember that some plants actually like poor soil, and if that’s the type you’re planting you don’t want to make the soil too rich.

Once the soil is ready, choose your plants, whether flowers or vegetables (DirectGardening.com – Offers quality plants at great prices). At the edge of the walls you can plant vines to trail over the sides, using either vegetables that vine, or flowering or foliage type vines, depending on what type of plants you’ve decided to raise in the terraced beds.

Long Term Results With Terraces.

Whle making terraces can be a lot of work and sometimes expensive, they’re a great way to eradicate an eyesore, improve your land, and provide another place for an organic garden full of flowers or vegetables.

Having more planting space is a big plus.